Vienna Food

Vienna’s cuisine is a conglomeration of the best of the old empire. At its base is the substantial food of southern Germany, but it features a plethora of dishes from throughout Central and Eastern Europe: the world famous Wiener Schnitzel arrived from Milan; Knödel (dumplings) originated in Bohemia; Gulasch (goulash) and Paprika Huhn (paprika chicken) crossed the border from Hungary; the delightful Palatschinken (pancakes) travelled all the way from Romania and the Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) from Turkey.

On the whole, traditional Viennese cuisine is heavy, hearty and strongly meat-based. A must for any visitor – vegetarians and vegans aside – is the Wiener schnitzel, the ubiquitous Viennese dish traditionally made with Kalb (veal) escalope, but often nowadays with Schwein (pork) or Puten (turkey). Gulasch, a beef stew with a spicy sauce flavoured with paprika, is also on most Viennese menus; Knödel seem to appear in every second dish, can be either sweet or sour, and are normally made with potatoes or bread. Apfelstrudel is a ubiquitous dessert that is hard to avoid (and quite frankly, who would want to) while Palatschinken, a thinner version of the common pancake, is another favourite; like Knödel, they are served sweet with jams or savoury with meat.

Aside from standard dishes, Viennese cuisine runs with the seasons. Spring is a time to enjoy crunchy asparagus from the Weinviertel’s Marchfeld and dishes seasoned with Bärlauch, wild garlic found throughout the Wienerwald. Summer brings with it a grand array of fruits, in particular Erdbeeren (strawberries) from Burgenland and Marillen (apricots) from the Danube Valley. At this time, divine Marillenknödel top dessert lists throughout the city. Autumn is blessed with the arrival of Piltze (mushrooms – picking them in the Vienna Woods is a favourite pastime of many Viennese), Kürbis (pumpkin), wild meats and sweet Sturm (cloudy fermenting grape juice;). Eierschwammerl (chanterelle mushrooms) and Kürbiscremesuppe (cream of pumpkin soup) are dishes to look out for. Martinigansl (tender roast goose) is prevalent around St Martin’s Day in early November and fish is normally served at Christmas.

Although the menus of traditional Beisln (beer houses), Gasthäuser (inns) and Heurigen (wine taverns) loyally follow the established culinary standards, Vienna’s overall gastronomic scene is in flux. The last few years have seen an explosion of restaurants offering cuisine from around the world: Asian diners, Turkish kebab houses, Italian trattoria and Indian curry houses sprang up like mushrooms after a heavy rain. Yet the city’s current culinary climate is experiencing a ‘back to the roots’ phase and an upsurge in restaurants offering modern takes on traditional dishes. Leading the way in this new love affair with Viennese cuisine is Österreicher im MAK, Steirereck im Stadtpark, and neo-Beisln like Gasthaus Wild and Goldmund.

Traditionally the main meal of the day is lunch (heralded by Mahlzeit, literally ‘meal time’ – a greeting heard throughout restaurants at midday) and restaurants are well attuned to their customers’ needs; a large percentage offer set menus (Mittagsmenü), consisting of a salad or soup and a main dish, at a good price. However, like any busy city, lunch can be a rushed affair – dinner, on the other hand, is an event where the food, wine and company are to be savoured. Most Viennese breakfast at home. Weekends are the exception to the rule: many restaurants cater to a flood of people meeting over continental breakfasts or full fry-ups. The Naschmarkt is a prime spot on Saturday mornings.

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